The Universe’s Gift to Me: Turning Cape Horn on My Birthday

The Universe gave me the best birthday gift, on my birthday, the day I tuned 45 I also turned Cape Horn! 

We have sailed over 1,500 miles since leaving Uruguay. We’ve crossed vast seas and weathered storms. Even the way we measure the wind’s power has changed.

Not at all. We have dreams, but what matters most is the journey toward those dreams.

In Ushuaia, Bohdana joined us. She sailed across the Atlantic with Can in 2022 and then waited with Ömer in Martinique’s St. Anne Bay for me to finish my own crossing. She’s been following this adventure from the start and flew out to join us at the first chance she got.

Embracing Everything Patagonia Offers

Ushuaia is a natural harbor surrounded by snowy mountains, open only to winds from the east.

But having come to Patagonia to fully immerse ourselves in its essence, we accepted its challenges with steadfast resolve.

After exploring the town, the wind shifted east, and waves began rolling into the harbour. The dock at Club Afasyn, where three boats were tied together, turned chaotic. The boats rocked and bumped into each other as the waves grew stronger. It took three hours of effort, including running a line to shore, to untangle and safely secure them.

Heading to the End of the World

Ushuaia is our last stop in Argentina, but it’s not the end of the world. To sail around Cape Horn and the nearby islands, we had to enter Chile and clear formalities at Puerto Williams.

Puerto Williams is home to Micalvi Marina, the world’s southernmost yacht club. Boats here are moored side-by-side next to a grounded ship that serves as a quirky marina.

The Struggles of Bureaucracy

Though there’s a shortcut to Cape Horn through the Murray Channel, it’s only open to Chilean-flagged boats. The rivalry between Argentina and Chile closed the route to others, forcing us to detour through Puerto Williams. It’s a frustrating but necessary step to continue our journey.

The Last Bit of Civilization

After gathering tips from seasoned sailors in Puerto Williams, we set sail as soon as the weather allowed. Our first stop was Puerto Toro, a tiny fishing village with just 15 households. It’s the southernmost inhabited place in the world, a quiet reminder of how far we’ve come.

We moored alongside fishing boats and met the local fishermen. The moment we saw them, all we could think about was crabs—glorious, delicious crabs! It didn’t take long before we were feasting on the sea’s freshest treasure.

Racing the Weather

With good weather in our favor, we left early the next morning for Herschel Island, one of two safe anchorages on the way to Cape Horn. The headwinds were strong, and gusts rushed down from the mountains, but the wind shifted west, allowing us to sail part of the way.

By afternoon, we reached Martial Bay and dropped anchor, tying lines to the shore to hold against the strong winds expected the next day. While we waited for a clear weather window, Patagonia’s raw beauty left us speechless.

The Wild Majesty of Cape Horn

Cape Horn, a place of legend and peril, has claimed over 10,000 lives throughout the centuries. Sailors say the spirits of those lost now soar within the albatrosses that grace these skies. Since the opening of the Panama Canal, only adventurers like us, alongside the occasional cruise ship, dare to navigate these remote waters.

As we approached the open sea, the waves swelled to nearly four meters, their unruly nature defying the relatively calm winds. These waves were untamed, far fiercer than the ocean swells we had grown accustomed to. Towering, rugged mountains loomed over the crashing surf, and the chaotic seas roared beneath us, creating a landscape of unyielding wilderness.

In the cockpit, silence fell. We were captivated, humbled, and deeply moved by the raw, untamed power of nature surrounding us.

A Birthday to Remember

As we rounded Hornos Island, albatrosses greeted us, and clouds draped the island in mist. On this day, when the universe was kind to us, we accomplished the legendary feat of rounding Cape Horn. It was a gift unlike any other—a memory I’ll cherish forever.

To honor those who weren’t as fortunate in these waters, we followed tradition and poured a drink into the sea. On the day of my birth, I returned from the very edge of the world.