Our Story Is Elsewhere

Buenos Aires is full of life, from its lively streets to the calming rhythm of the milongas. A glass of Malbec is just what you need to warm up on a cool evening. The city has a way of drawing people in, but for us, the real adventure is out on the ocean.

For sailors, Buenos Aires is a friendly stop, a place where Argentina greets you before you head for the open sea. It’s the last familiar port before the unpredictable waters of the south.

The journey officially starts from Mar del Plata, about 275 miles away, with part of the route winding through the Río de la Plata delta. From there, it’s all about the open ocean and what lies ahead.

Our story isn’t in the city—it’s out at sea.

The route through the Delta heads east, and once we hit the Atlantic, we'll be heading south. Catching a wind that works for both directions? Impossible. What matters is having the wind on our side when we reach the Atlantic. As you sail south, any wind from the south will make upwind sailing a challenge.

After all, as the saying goes;

 "Gentlemen don’t sail to windward"

Our plan was simple: glide through the Plata River delta with a gentle breeze, and once we hit the open ocean, wait for a strong north wind to carry us south. This leg would cover around 275 miles in one go.

South Atlantic: Here We Come

At sunrise, we left the Argentina Yacht Club in high spirits, catching the high tide perfectly. The waters would soon start receding, giving us a nice boost from the tidal current. According to the forecast, we weren’t expecting much wind until the evening, but we raised the mainsail as soon as we could—always the routine. Even in calm conditions, the mainsail adds a bit of speed as long as the wind angle isn’t too steep and our speed remains moderate.

As we navigated the delta, the wind slowly shifted north, picking up strength. After 90 miles, we finally killed the engine and let the wind take over.

Who Turned On the Night Light?

As someone who’s mastered the art of intermittent sleep, I’m always the first to catch some rest at sunset. After a solid nap until around 11 p.m., I take over the night watch. We're still getting familiar with these waters, this weather, and the boat, so for now, we keep two people on watch during the night whenever we can.

When I step out, I’m momentarily blinded—it’s bright all around, like we're anchored in the Mediterranean with underwater lights from a motor yacht. The waves are foamy and glowing with fluorescent light. A storm is raging, but the wind reading shows no change. Then it hits me: the light on the water is bioluminescence. It’s as if the sea is alive with starfish, and someone’s switched on a night lamp in these waters. As we glide through this glowing ocean, the world around us becomes even brighter, lighting our path in the most surreal way.

Avoid Entering Mar del Plata Port at Night

As we neared Mar del Plata, the wind picked up, pushing us along with a steady force. We found ourselves surfing the waves, and with the centerboard up, the boat gained serious speed, cruising at a steady 8-9 knots. Mar del Plata is a bustling fishing port, and we were on course to arrive around midnight. But there’s a clear warning in the pilot books: sand builds up at the port entrance, and it’s a no-go at night when northern winds blow and waves break at the mouth.

Despite the warning, our crew, experienced with tight maneuvers in small spaces, pressed on. Bundled up in the freezing cold, facing 30-knot winds, we cautiously entered the harbor. Ömer stood ready with a flashlight, scanning for any obstacles in our path. Eventually, we found a spot and tied up at one of the docks in front of the marina.

The Real Sailors' Playground

Waking up the next morning, we were greeted by a hive of activity. Hundreds of optimists and lasers were being launched from the marina ramp overlooking the bay, with surfers and kayakers mixed in the chaos. Somehow, they managed to squeeze our 50-foot boat into the last available spot.

It didn’t take long for us to realize what these kids were up to. They weren’t just messing around—they were heading out of the harbor and into the ocean, racing in the open sea! After 4-5 hours on the water, they returned, chilled to the bone, but totally unfazed. They’d beach their boats, wash them down, dismantle all the gear, and only then would they grab a bite and take a hot shower.

Meanwhile, we were still grumbling about how cold the nights were, despite the comfort of our boat. Watching these young sailors, we couldn’t help but laugh at ourselves. Who are we kidding? The real serious sailors here are these kids!

The People Who Made Our Journey Unforgettable

Karime, our Spanish lifesaver, welcomed us as we docked at the marina and was by our side throughout our stay in Mar del Plata, adding so much joy to our days. Not only did she help with the language we were still struggling to master, but she also introduced us to her friends along our upcoming route and found answers to every question we had.

Our boat neighbor Gustavo made sure we felt like part of the community by introducing us to the club members during a traditional lamb roast, or asado, in the garden. It was there that the seasoned sailors of the region generously shared their stories and advice with us.

Isn’t this why we set sail in the first place? To meet new people, exchange stories, and let the world shape us as we go?