#2 Heading to Buenos Aires - Freezing Our Asses Off

We bring you a series of stories called Soledad Chronicles, a travelogue from a voyage departing from Uruguay to the final destination of Chile.

The  "wrong" side of Cape Horn trip is an endeavor initiated by a rather unusual woman accompanied by her husband and their mutual friend.

Who am I?

I am Başak Mireli, an offshore sailor and adventurer. I am 44 years old, and in 2022 I crossed the Atlantic by myself in 24 days.

Now I set off on a sailing trip from the "wrong" side of Cape Horn. From the wrong side, because on this side I have to fight with sea currents and winds. I will report back with my travels as soon as I can. I take videos more than I write, so if you want to combine image and tone with texts, you can also follow me on my You Tube channel and on socials @basakmireli and @soledadmarinetextile

All the text from my journey are in three languages; English, Croatian and Turkish.

Enjoy your read!

Freezing our asses off

As we continue our journey south, we're following the Patagonian coast, but one destination we’re eager to visit—despite it being slightly off our route—is Buenos Aires.

For the past week, we've been preparing for this leg of the journey, with a key focus on closely monitoring weather conditions. Our top priority is to sail as much as possible while avoiding the need to use the motor, especially against the wind. By keeping a close eye on the forecast, we aim to make the most of favorable winds and ensure a smooth, enjoyable sailing experience.

Preparation, for us, means always being ready

At any moment, we're poised to cast off the lines as soon as a favorable breeze appears. Currently, we’re docked in Uruguay, but we can’t stay here for more than six months. After that, we’d need coast guard inspections every time we change ports within Uruguay—and that’s definitely not something we’re ready for. Our goal is to leave Uruguay as soon as possible, but we’ll do it on our own terms, not in a rush.

Our route will take us through the delta of the Río de la Plata, the natural border between Argentina and Uruguay. If you check the map, it might look like a bay stretching inland from the sea, but in reality, it's a delta where river meets the Atlantic.

Poseidon has certainly been on our side

On our first leg of the voyage, he was kind, favoring us with perfect sailing conditions. A high-pressure system formed over the Atlantic, hugging the eastern coastline and passing over Piriápolis before moving towards the Río de la Plata delta.

This system brought clear skies and steady winds, acting as a shield against rough weather. As it drifts southward, sailors can expect calmer seas, ideal for smooth sailing. When the system reaches the delta, it creates a delicate but peaceful atmospheric balance where the river meets the ocean.

With the weather forecast looking perfect, we were thrilled. After unanimously deciding it couldn’t get any better, we checked out and set sail from the port.

About 10 miles from shore, wind picks up, blowing 18-20 knots, but we had anticipated this. It was then that our Garcia Passoa 50 truly shone, showing off why it’s such a beloved sailboat.

Sailing Without a Keel = Flying!

They say you always remember your first, and my first experience sailing with a lifting keel was unforgettable. On this leg of our journey, I got the chance to feel what it’s like to sail free of the keel. We didn’t even raise the genoa, just hoisted a light yankee cut sail—and even that was enough to make the boat not just sail, but fly!

Our highest speed hit an exhilarating 12.2 knots.

How we got kicked out of the channel

At an average speed of 9 knots, we reached the entrance to the Río de la Plata channel just in time to catch a stunning sunset. The river, with its silt deposits and strong tidal currents, makes navigating the excavated channel the safest option.

As the cold wind picked up with the setting sun, we decided to lower the mainsail and continue under the genoa. Not only did the temperature drop, but we also didn’t completely trust the depth measurements shown outside the channel. With the genoa, we gained much better maneuverability, which was crucial because the boat traffic was far denser than we had anticipated. Thankfully, everything went smoothly.

It turns out we still have a few tricks up our sleeves!

It’s easy to forget that the three of us refined our sailing skills navigating the busy waters of the Bosphorus, so weaving through the traffic in the Río de la Plata felt like second nature. As proud as we were of the clever maneuvers we pulled, our acrobatics caught the attention of the Argentine Coast Guard, who kindly called us on VHF and asked to get out of the channel—just to be safe.

Later, over drinks with friends at the Argentine Sailing Club in Buenos Aires, we learned there was never any real danger in the channel, especially without the keel. Apparently, we could have sailed straight from Cape Montevideo to Buenos Aires without any trouble, until the last 10 miles before the pier.

Still, it’s always good to know the rules and do things by the book, even when you’ve got a few tricks up your sleeve!

Freezing Our Butts Off

That first night, the cold seeped straight into our bones—it had been a while since we sailed in chilly weather. The Caribbean had spoiled us, turning us into tropical climate creatures without even realizing it! No matter how many layers we piled on, we were constantly cold, especially in the mornings.

When I sailed solo across the Atlantic, I didn't bother with tea or coffee, just hot water or hot water with ginger. I stuck to the same routine on this trip, moving around a lot to stay warm, but even with that, the cold still wore me down. We were freezing out there!

Some moorings are unforgettable

Approaching certain ports and harbors can be a truly special and, at times, incredibly exciting experience. Even after so many days at sea, hopping between locations and ports, this time felt different. For the first time in what seemed like forever, we felt like we had arrived somewhere completely unique. Everything about it was special. I’ll never forget those last 5 miles sailing towards Buenos Aires—it’s etched in my memory for life. And passing through the gates of the Argentina Yacht Club? That ranks as one of my top sailing moments ever. It may sound a bit sentimental, but breathing in the scent of the city as we sailed in felt unforgettable.

Buenos Aires is a magical city, and we've completely fallen in love with it. Sadly, though, we don’t plan to stay for more than a week. Before setting off, we debated whether to dock at the Argentina Yacht Club or Madero Marina, both conveniently located near the city center. In the end, the Argentina Yacht Club won us over—they offer two free nights to foreign sailors as a friendly welcome. A clever little perk, but it worked—we were sold!

Argentina Yacht Club: As Vibrant as It Gets

This club is like a buzzing beehive—there’s always something going on! It’s not just the wind and the sea in motion; the whole place is alive with activity. We were lucky enough to snag a mooring spot right on the pontoon, next to the boat launch ramp, so we had front-row seats to all the action. It’s non-stop energy, and we’re soaking it all in!

First to set off were the Optimists, followed by the Lasers, and then the catamarans and 29ers. Meanwhile, on the other side of the club, there was a similar flurry of activity with one-design sailboats.

The most impressive part?

Everyone enters and leaves the marina under sails! No rows or motors in sight. We were a bit shocked, not used to seeing that level of ambition and skill. But what really left us speechless were a few sailors tirelessly practicing their gybes inside the marina. It was like watching a well-rehearsed performance—precision and dedication at its finest!

While we, bundled up in every layer of clothing we could find, watched them nimbly duck out of the boom’s path from our freezing cockpit, we couldn’t help but wonder where they got all that energy and motivation.

How could they move so swiftly in this cold? 

Then again, they were probably looking at us, just as puzzled, wondering what possessed us to swap the warm Mediterranean for the rugged waters of Patagonia!